East bazaar
There are more than fifteen big markets in Tashkent. But Eski Djuva bazaar is the biggest and the most ancient bazaar not only in Uzbekistan - but in the whole Central Asia. Being located in the very centre of the so-called Old Town near Chor-su square it is more than two millennia years old, being almost on the same place during the whole period.
In 70s of 20 c. the plan of the bazaar reconstruction was approved regarding the peculiar features of architecture and traditions of the town-planning of the former epochs. Nowadays this is the unique ensemble of the linked blue cupolas which seem to "swim" in the air and dome the concentric buildings duly inserted in the architectural ensemble of the capital. In the central part of the bazaar the main domed monumental building with the diameter of about 300-350 m and covered with ornament is constructed. This is three-level bazaar building with elevator system. The lowest store is composed of the basement corridors with numerous store rooms. The middle store is presented as round-shaped system of counters where different grains, cereals and groats, forage, seeds, spices, milk stuff, eggs are on sale. At the upper store of the building you can see a plenty of dishes with the dry fruits (raisins, dry apricots, walnuts, hazel nuts, almonds) around the round-shaped hall with counters. During spring and summer a lot of fruits and vegetables are brought to the bazaar. They are sold in the roofed rows situated in concentric order around the main circus-shaped building described above. Big covered rows with the meat and meat stuff are located a little bit aside. In a special gallery under small cupolas on Eski Djuva bazaar the shops of the craftsmen are located where they manufacture and sell jewelry, painted cradles for babies ("beshik"), clothes with the gold embroidery, national case-boxes decorated with the metal ornament, embroidered suzanes and "djiyak" - tapes for the trimming of the lower part of the women wide national trousers, quilted gowns for men ("chapans") and "parandjas" (national face-covers) for women, national blankets of different colours ("kurpachas") and national Uzbek knives ("pichoks") in the leather or brass cases, woven rod baskets and trays of different shape and size, national musical instruments. Here the tinsmiths, smiths, carpenters and wood-carvers work. The potters (kulolas) offer you round dishes ("lyagans") and deep big cups ("kosas") decorated with the turquoise and blue ornaments. The market place where the carpets from Khiva, Samarkand, Bukhara, Afghanistan, Turkey and even Belgium are sold reminds you that you are in the very trade-hean of the Great Silk Road.
Among the described rows small "islands" are found where it is possible to buy lepeshkas, to visit national cafes ("chaikhanas") where you can enjoy the traditional cuisine and to drink a cup of the black or green tea.. Here you can also find hairdresser's, billiard playing rooms, to buy unavoidable "coca-cola" or ice-cream.
The oriental bazaar is not only the place for trade - but is a peculiar club where you can meet old friends and familiar people and hear the oral news, this is a centre of folk entertainments. The notorious "long-ear" was originated right in the bazaar surroundings. The people who like to be inside a boisterous crowd and to sense so-called oriental peculiar features gather there. The oriental bazaar is also the "barometer" of social life. If the small shops - "dukans" work - then it is peaceful everywhere. But if they are closed suddenly - then the troubles come. Eski Djuva bazaar uas a centre of the city life in former time which is proved with the construction of such monumental religious cult buildings as Djami Friday mosque and Kukeldash mosque near it in 15-16 centuries which up to now decorate the city as before.
The bazaar is equipped with eight brightly decorated entrances and exits, comfortable access roads, wide staircases, several car parking for 1,5-2 thousand of cars and there is an entrance to the underground station right in its centre. Besides Eski Djuva bazaar, the other bazaars in Tashkent are also reconstructed. Their vast market places are now well-organized and arranged, protected against the sun rays and precipitation with the cupolas under the big tents and in the new pavilions mam trade-places appeared. The bazaars are equipped with high-capacity refrigerators, big store-house, small mechanical devices as well as with sanitary and sewage systems.
The guarded car-parking places are constructed near the bazaars while the fanners ("dekhkans") can stay at the hotels.
Traditional "oriental" bazaars can be found also in the other towns of Uzbekistan. During already five centuries in Samarkand one of the oldest bazaars of the Central Asia is crowded with people as before. Intense life on the bazaar at the foot of Bibi-Khanym mosque starts early in the morning and ends only with the sunset. Inviting voices of the salesmen, noise of the cars horns, sounds of national music, smell of species and roasted meat, bright variety of fruits and vegetables in the sale rows create the unique atmosphere of oriental bazaar. Here you can taste salted apricot bones in ash ("danak"), buy the well-known puff Samarkand lepeshkas with a goldish crust. There are families of the local bakers in Samarkand where the secrets and skills of baking this special type of bread-lepeshkas are passed from one generation to another. Many tourists buy Samarkand lepeshkas as souvenirs because they know that they are kept fresh, tasty and nice-looking for a long time. In 1 845 near the wall of Sher-Dor madrasah the Chorsu domed market passage was constructed. Todav С horsu is the exhibition hall where you can buy the items of the local Samarkand craftsmen. In old time in a certain fixed day special market fair places were organized in oriental countries. Some of the towns and villages even got their names in honor of such "market" days. Thus, the name of Tadjikistan capital - Dushanbe means "Monday". Small Djuma town near Samarkand got its name because of the Friday bazaars organized there. The tradition of the one-day markets is preserved up to now. One of the most famous bazaars of this type - Sunday market in the old Urgut town is - in 60 km distance from Samarkand.
L'rgut - is a real town of craftsmen. Here the hereditary smiths, potters-kulolas and embroiderers live. On Sunday it is possible to buy both modern and old Urgut hand-made embroideries, cornelian and silver jewelry, carpets, palaces (floor carpets), old clothes, hand-made silk and cotton fabrics and other amusing things on the bazaar. The bazaars of the ancient Bukhara located in its reserved historical part - impress you with their exotic and rich appearance. Rafael Pampelli - the American geologist and researcher of oriental countries in the beginning of 20 c. had written in his notes: "I luge Bukhara bazaar is, by its character, the most oriental one comparing with all others. Its narrow streets are shaded from sun under the roofs of lattice construction. Each type of the goods is sold in a special block. Bukhara is famous for the unique handicraft inherent only for it. Its silks with the unique texture and colors, carpets with the wonderful ornaments, gold embroider) and jewelry are typical only for Bukhara".
"Khush kelibsiz!" "Welcome!" - with these words of hospitality the gates of Uzbekistan are opened inviting the guest for trying the fairy and exotic wonders.
